Red Cross Workers Wanted

From The Times 17th September 1918. 

RED CROSS WORKERS WANTED.

TO THE EDITOR OF THE TIMES.

Sir,—May I ask leave to plead in your columns for further aid for the Central Workrooms?  During the three years of our existence we have, through our working parties, home workers, and workers in the Central Workrooms, been able to supply over 30 million garments and hospital necessaries to the joint stores of the British Red Cross Society and Order of St. John in Pall-mall, and to Red Cross hospitals in all the fighting areas.  It is, however, in the Central Workrooms at Burlington House that help is primarily needed.  Whenever a sudden demand for any special necessary arises it is to these rooms that the stores department first turns.  For instance, a thousand sand-fly and mosquito-proof sleeping suits were urgently needed in hospitals in Mesopotamia.  These were made by our workers at the rate of 250 a week.  Many such examples could be cited, and now that the autumn is here and the sick and wounded are daily increasing in number, we need more and more ladies to come and help us.  Machinists are especially welcomed, but all who can help are invited.  May we ask that many will volunteer for a certain number of days or half-days each week, remembering that this is an urgent national work, for the wounded will not be restored to health without the necessary comforts and appliances? 
Yours, &c.,
LOUISE GOSFORD.
British Red Cross Society and Order of St. John, Headquarters Central Workrooms, Royal Academy, Piccadilly, W.1.

Women's Work For Soldiers And Sailors

From the Huddersfield Daily Examiner, 31st December 1917.

WOMEN'S WORK FOR SOLDIERS AND SAILORS.—

The Lindley sewing parties for 1917 have been very well attended, and the committee are glad to report a very successful year's work.  One thousand seven hundred and thirty three pairs of hospital slippers and surgical boots have been made and over 800 woollen comforts knitted including many welcome gifts from friends who work in their own homes.  The sum of £50 has been paid over to the bureau, Ramsden Street, including £20 raised for the special effort week.  This is in addition to the summer garden party at Briarcourt when the sum of £87 was raised for the cause.

[I have included this because it is very local to me.  Briarcourt is a large house in Lindley designed by the architect Edgar Wood.

There must still have been similar sewing parties, and groups making comforts for the troops, all over the country, following on from the burst of activity in 1914 at the start of the war.  There were probably fewer women available for sewing and knitting, though - by the end of 1917, many women were working full-time, in munitions factories and replacing men who were now in the forces.

I haven't been able to find out what the 'special effort week' was.]   

Wartime Hobbies

From the Birmingham Gazette, 18th May 1915.

Wartime Hobbies.

The two main hobbies in London just now are the making of sandbags and the upkeep of personal “war books.”  Sandbag parties have superseded knitting parties, says the “Manchester Guardian” London correspondent.

Young women gather together for luncheon, and afterwards give themselves to the cutting or shearing of coarse sacking and stitching it into bags for the wall of sandbags that is said to stretch from Switzerland to the sea.

It is a task people are eager to undertake in spite of its irksomeness, for every sandbag, the worker knows, helps to save lives.  Young girls’ teas are given with this object only, and cards are sent out with “sandbags” in the corner that once had the word “Tango”—a warning to come provided with thimble and enormous scissors—and many girls who have scarcely ever put cotton through an eyelet now spend hours on work that compares rather unfavourably with picking oakum.
  

War Books.

“War books,” on the other hand, are the bound and often beautiful volumes of collected letters and mementoes of every sort sent from the front, adds the correspondent.

A girl will have, for instance, a large album with her monogram and that of her brother or sweetheart, which contains their letters, postcards, and any snapshot or special newspaper cutting of personal interest.

[Picking oakum was an occupation for Victorian prisoners, intended as a punishment.] 

Needs Of The Wounded

From The Times, March 29 1915.

NEEDS OF THE WOUNDED.

THE QUEEN'S APPEAL TO BRITISH WOMEN.

Lady Lawley, honorary secretary of the Q.M.N.G. [Queen Mary's Needlework Guild], writing from Friary Court, St. James's Palace, S.W., says:--

...."The Q.M.N.G. has now had 7½ months of continual work, during which time over a million garments have been received, and distributed in 2,225 grants.  From various inquiries made it is felt by her Majesty the Queen that with the approach of summer the necessity for woollen comforts no longer exists; nor for clothing for women and children, but owing to the duration of the war and the large number of casualties every week, there is an increased demand for all necessaries and comforts for our wounded and convalescent soldiers in the many hospitals at home and abroad.  Several thousand more beds have to be fully equipped. Her Majesty, therefore, invites all those who have so generously helped the Q.M.N.G. in the past to devote their energies in the future to making any of the following for hospital use: --

Shirts; Nightshirts; Pyjamas; Dressing Gowns; Towels; Feather pillows; Bandages; Lint

"In addition to these, socks for men will be wanted all through the summer.”

The New “Officer” Blouse

From Woman’s Own, 13th March 1915.

The New “Officer” Blouse

And How to Make it

Out of compliment to those brave men who are fighting for us, we have felt it to be a fitting tribute to them to wear something which will remind us always of them, and the Editress and her designer have created what is without doubt the most stylish military blouse yet designed.

The new "Officer" blouse, made in plain material, with self-coloured braid on cuffs, and dull-metal buttons

This special blouse, of which a free paper pattern is presented with “WOMAN’S OWN” this week, has been termed the “Officer” blouse, because it so closely resembles the Service tunic of an officer, as far as it is possible to make a comfortably fitting garment for a lady to wear.  The blouse, as illustrated, is fitted with the regulation breast pockets, shoulder tabs, and cuff, daintily outlined with braid in the true style.

[Directions for cutting out and sewing the blouse omitted.] 

Our blouse pattern is such a comfortable one that other designs have been fashioned from it with charming results, as the sketches on this page show.  The only difference is in the trimming, and those etceteras that quickly transformed the pattern into one of military style are done away with… others being substituted to give an entirely new aspect to the blouse.

Drawing 2 - a "best blouse"

We will take the perfectly sweet design [in Drawing 2].  Could anything be fashioned more daintily than this?  Yet it is cut from the same pattern as the military blouse.  The prettily shaped collar, with revers attached, is edged with Val lace and carried down the front, which this time fastens on the right side.  In place of the military cuff, two bands of lace are attached to the sleeve to imitate a cuff, and a frill edged with the same lace is added to give a soft, dainty finish to the sleeve.  Coarse crochet buttons are used, and the collar is slightly embroidered to give a still more dainty finish to this beautiful blouse, which at once calls for soft, creamy white material.

Another pretty blouse for afternoon wear is that shown in [Drawing 3], made of any of the new washing materials for blouse use, and trimmed most becomingly with figured ninon.  The same shape collar is used, only without the revers points, and the knot is cut in the usual way from the material, stitched in place, and hooked to one side after the blouse is closed.

Drawing 3

There is a slight difference, however, in the fastening of the fronts, for they are made to meet and hook down invisibly, fancy buttons being placed on both sides as a trimming.  The little cuff is merely a plain, turned-back one of the same fancy stuff as the collar and tie.

[It is astonishing how much women's shapes had changed, from the stately bosoms of Edwardian ladies.  The women in these sketches are very flat-chested.

The Editress doesn't seem entirely convinced that the military blouse is what her readers want, since she also provides the alternative versions, majoring in 'daintiness'.]  

Economy in Children's Clothes

From the Brecon County Times, 4th February 1915.

DRESSMAKING AT HOME.

By SYLVIA.

A Baby Girl's Pelisse.
Whatever happens healthy little folk will outgrow or wear out their garments, and thrifty mothers, at these times especially, are kept very busy, either altering, lengthening, or making up something “to keep them tidy.”  As the war makes it necessary for most of us to economise, by making these small garments at home, considerable saving can be effected in the annual clothing bill, as odd lengths may be used with perfect success.

With these thoughts of economy in my mind, I have selected a little coat or pelisse for a small girl of four to six years of age in No. 1,855 as a pattern which seemed likely to useful just now.  It is quite an easy affair to make, and can be fashioned from odd lengths, as I have suggested.  The coat is designed especially for the purpose, that is, being composed of a bodice and skirt-part enables one to utilise somewhat short lengths to the best advantage.  Thus the bodice, which in the sketch is of the Magyar type, can be cut all in one, or have the sleeves added on, according to the pieces you have at your disposal, whilst the skirt part can be joined under the arms, or have a corner piece added at the back, just as may best suit the material.  The pattern thus enables you literally to carry out the proverb and “cut your coat according to your cloth.”

As to materials and colours, these I must of course leave to your discretion; also the pieces, seeing that it is intended purely for those who have to economise.

To Cut and Make. Having decided on your cloth, the next thing is the cutting out and making up. The question of a lining will be decided by the material, which, if rather thin, is necessary; at any rate, the bodice should be lined to make this as "comfy" as possible for the small wearer.  The lining should be cut a trifle larger than the coat, as woollen material is likely to stretch, and the lining, which is cotton, will not “give.”

The coat, too, had better be cut amply long and large, to allow for growth, which at this early age is apt to be very rapid.  ... [Making up instructions omitted.]  If you have any scraps left you might employ these in making the small bonnet. The coat, if not made of remnants, will take about one and a half yard of double-width goods.

[Details follow of how to obtain a paper pattern for 6½d post free.]

A 'Work for Women' Workroom

From The Times, December 1st 1914

THE QUEEN AND EMPLOYMENT FOR WOMEN.

The Queen yesterday visited the workroom which has been established at the Royal Institute of Public Health in Russell-square as a branch of Queen Mary's Needlework Guild.....

Her Majesty inspected the workroom, in which 30 girls and women were engaged in making and remodelling clothes, and conversed with many of the workers.  In the library of the institute a number of garments were displayed.  Some of these were new, but others had been remodelled.  There were petticoats made out of tea-gowns, a girl's dress made out of a man's dressing-gown, and, notably, a number of clothes for boys and girls which had been fashioned from golf capes.  Some hundreds of garments have been sent from the workroom to our soldiers and sailors and to the Belgian refugees.

The undertaking has an excellent educational value, as the women to whom employment is given are taught the work of remaking clothes.  The Queen expressed her appreciation and approval of the work that is being done.

Get Your Eyes Tested

From the Morpeth Herald and Reporter, 27th November 1914. 

Text:

 During the War - Most people are doing some sewing or knitting for the comfort of our brave soldiers fighting in the trenches this cold weather.  Those who find the work tedious or causing headache should call any Wednesday, between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.,  on J. W. Platten, D.B.O.A., London, Sight Testing Specialist, of 67, Beach Avenue, Whitley Bay, 100, Newgate Street, Morpeth.  Sight Testing FREE.

Work Amongst the Women

From the Huddersfield Examiner, 26th November, 1914

[Extracts from a much longer article.]

WORK AMONGST THE WOMEN.

MUCH ACTIVITY CENTRALISED AT THE PAROCHIAL HALL.

...The members of the Huddersfield and District Women’s Committee for the Sick and Wounded Soldiers and Sailors arranged to be “at home” at the Parochial Hall on Tuesday and again to-day.  At the first of the series of four “At Homes” which took place on Tuesday afternoon, the Mayoress (who is president of the Women’s Committee) presided over a very large gathering of ladies. .....

A VAST UNDERTAKING

Mrs. Demetriadi read the report [of the work of the Committee].... She invited all present to inspect the work rooms below, particularly the Belgian refugee clothing room, where a capable lot of workers, under the supervision of Mrs. Crowther and Miss Willans, had done an enormous amount of work.  From that room more than 320 Belgian refugees now in Huddersfield had been clothed.....
In the main rooms an enormous number of garments had been cut out, despatched to the various work centres, and returned made up.  Mrs. Marshall and Mrs. Guy Crosland had cut out and arranged the work, and Mrs. Kaye had searched Huddersfield over in buying wool for socks, mittens, etc.
Goods had been sent all over the British Isles, to the army in France, to the navy, and to all the Red Cross societies, British, French, and Belgian, and to the St. John Ambulance Society.  She hoped that many ladies would undertake to knit jerseys, for which Lady Jellicoe had appealed on behalf of the men in the navy....  
The committee hoped that the energies of the ladies would not be relaxed.  The women could not fight, but they could see that the men were well provided with the necessities of life, to prevent as much as possible death from pneumonia, exposure, and cold.

STITCH, STITCH, STITCH

Miss Hickson [reported on] the work of the Needlework Guild Sub-committee. She stated that forty districts, extending as far as Holmfirth, Marsden, and Delph, were working in conjunction with the guild, and material for making garments had been distributed amongst 400 individual workers. Very valuable assistance had been given to the committee by several clothing firms, whose employees had cut out the garments. Gifts averaged about 1,000 weekly. Difficulty had been experienced in obtaining knitting wool, and the only way of obtaining sufficiently large quantities had been by ordering direct from wholesale firms. All flannel, etc., and as much wool as possible, had been bought from local tradespeople.  The needlework depot had been opened as a receiving and forwarding agency for the front and the Navy, and in connection with that department a sixpenny fund had been started in order to buy wool for mufflers and mittens for the soldiers and sailors.  The total number of articles sent away was 22,644, consisting of 6,650 bandages, 3,519 pairs of socks, 2,292 flannel shirts, 202 mufflers, 261 dressing gowns, also bed-jackets, helmets, mittens, etc., but such things as cigarettes, writing paper, postcards, etc., were not included in the figure.....  The Needlework Committee was still working as enthusiastically as ever, and was prepared to continue as long as there was need, and they hoped to receive the same generous support as in the past.

FOR THE REFUGEES.

Miss Willans read the report of the Belgian Refugee Clothing Committee... Parcels of all sizes and descriptions had poured in containing a tremendous assortment of clothing of every description, from a baby’s cap to the contents of the lockers of a large golf club.  Splendid gifts of cloth had been received from various manufacturers, as well as special articles of clothing, boots, etc., from manufacturers and various shops in the town.  The contents of the parcels had either been given away to the refugees in the town or sent away.  Altogether twelve consignments of clothing and two rolls of cloth, amounting to 8,224 garments, had been sent away either to the central depot in London or to other towns....

GIFTS FOR TERRITORIALS

Mrs. Cooper read a report stating that on the mobilisation of the 5th Battalion Duke of Wellington’s West Riding Regiment the wives and relatives of the officers decided to raise funds to provide underclothing for the non-commissioned officers and men of the battalion.  A committee was formed to carry out the work from the recruiting area, viz., Huddersfield, Mirfield, Kirkburton, Shepley, Holmfirth, and Meltham...
The committee has already dispatched 1,299 flannel shirts, 1,495 pairs of woollen socks, 1,007 pairs of canvas shoes, and various articles, viz., helmets, towels, body-belts, scarves, mittens, etc.  There was another consignment at the Drill Hall ready to be forwarded, consisting of 1,117 flannel shirts, 1,106 pairs of woollen socks, and various other articles...

Afternoon tea was kindly given by Mrs. F. W. Sykes, and the decorations of the hall were provided by the lady members of the Lindley Golf Club, who have also sent 240 garments to Lady Jellicoe for the use of the men in the Navy. Miss Nancy Dyson, in costume, recited a topical composition by Mr. Arnold W. Sykes, entitled “For the boys at the front.”  The ladies were also “At Home” in the evening.

[The Women's Committee had evidently expanded the scope of their work from Sick and Wounded Soldiers and Sailors to include sailors at sea, soldiers at the front, soldiers in training (the Territorials), and Belgian refugees.]   

Halifax Lady Workers

From the Halifax Courier, 31 October 1914. 

MAYORESS'S LADY WORKERS' COMMITTEE

WEEKLY REPORT.

To D Company, 2nd Batt. W.R. Regt., [West Riding Regiment] British Expeditionary Force: 150 shirts, 72 pairs socks, 48 scarves, 36 pairs cuffs, 48 handkerchiefs, 60 belts, 2 pairs pants, meat lozenges, cards, bootlaces, &c.

To 6th Batt. W.R.R., Captain Andrews: 144 shirts, 144 pairs socks, 132 belts, 132 helmets, 96 pairs mittens, 96 handkerchiefs.

To 6th Batt., Captain Fleming: 120 shirts, 120 pairs socks, 120 scarves, 54 pairs mittens.

To 6th Batt., Lieut. Sykes: 123 shirts, 123 pairs socks, 123 scarves, 48 pairs mittens, 17 helmets.

To Anglo-French Red Cross Society: 24 helpless shirts, 24 nightshirts, 12 bed jackets, 24 nightingales, 48 handkerchiefs, box of bandages.

Royal Halifax Infirmary: 50 bed jackets, 48 nightshirts, 24 helpless shirts, 24 triangular bandages, roller bandages, pads, bed socks, old linen.

To Nurse Fox, France, 12 helpless cases, 6 housewifs, 12 pairs bed socks, 12 scarves, 12 nightingales, 48 handkerchiefs, 12 pairs cuffs, 2 pairs slippers, tobacco, cigarettes, soap, cards.

[If all these had been produced in one week, the Mayoress's lady workers had been very busy indeed.  

The 2nd Battalion of the West Riding Regiment was part of the pre-war army, and was already in France with the British Expeditionary Force.  The 6th was a Territorial Battalion, still in training in this country for active service overseas. 

Nurse Fox was from a Halifax family, and had written a long letter published in the Courier earlier in October, about her work in France, and conditions there for nurses and wounded soldiers.  She had asked for things for the men she was looking after, especially cigarettes. The consignment to her is presumably in response to that, and perhaps further letters to her family.  The 'housewifs' may be for the nurses, rather than their patients - little sewing kits, pronounced (and sometimes spelt) 'hussifs'.  

Part of Nurse Fox's earlier letter follows.]

From the Halifax Courier, 10th October 1914 

We have had a very heavy day, and the men want a lot doing for them.  They have been in the trenches a fortnight, and come in very quiet, but soon buck up after a night or two’s rest and good food.  We caught a German spy last night near our duty room, and he is now in irons, with a guard over him.  If any one offers you anything either for the men or us, grab and address it to me quick.  If only all of you knew

HOW MUCH THE MEN WANT COMFORTING,

"Woodbines' and sweets cheer them wonderfully.  Writing materials, papers, handkerchiefs, and things like that are needed.  When the men arrive they have lost everything except uniform.  They are good boys, and deserve all they have given.  You never hear a murmur except when the nerve has quite gone from them.  As we came along we saw a lot of French sick on a platform, and they looked famished.  We asked them if they were hungry, with the result all our grub was handed over, and we raided a Red Cross place, and got some bread and fruit. 

Workrooms for Unemployed Women

From The Times, 10th September 1914.

WORK FOR WOMEN FUND.

PROPOSED OPENING OF WORKROOMS.

THE PROBLEM IN LONDON.

[The article begins by reporting that the Queen's 'Work for Women' Fund has already reached over £33,000 (in only a week).]

In London the Central Committee on Women's Employment for England and Wales will work in two directions:— Numerous occupiers of factories and workshops whose business is at a standstill have offered the free use of their premises and plant if employment can be found for their workers.  The Central Committee propose to take over a number of workrooms, paying, in special cases, a small amount to the proprietor for supervision, and to employ the workers in making garments to be distributed ... in cases of distress among our own people, and also among the refugees who are flocking to the country.

This policy... will not, however, meet the problem of the 45,000 women and girls already unemployed in London, and it is proposed that workrooms should be opened in different districts in London.... , to include training and instruction in certain skilled trades to semi-skilled or unskilled women.

The first articles to be produced under those schemes should, it is considered, be for the use of expectant mothers, a great number of whom are at present in the direst distress.  The Matron of the East London Lying-in Home states that 500 maternity outfits could be allocated in Stepney alone between now and Christmas, and she is prepared to guarantee that in every such case the child would otherwise be actually without sufficient covering to maintain it in a healthy condition.

[It is worth remembering that in at a time when there was no State support for the unemployed, and many of the poor did not earn enough at the best of times to have any savings, a month with no work would have left many families in a desperate plight.]

The Co-ordination of Effort

From The Times, 31st August, 1914.

THE CO-ORDINATION OF EFFORT.

A WEEKLY MEETING AT ST. JAMES'S PALACE.

"With the approval of her Majesty the Queen it has been arranged that a meeting of one representative of each of the Queen Mary's Needlework Guild, the St. John Ambulance Association, and the British Red Cross Society shall be held every Wednesday afternoon.... in order to ascertain what garments and articles have been received by each Society, and what are the special requirements for the following week.

"A statement will then be issued to the Press... Great confusion and much unnecessary work has been caused by unauthorized statements appearing in the Press.  The workers for all three Societies named above are earnestly requested to note that this weekly statement will be authoritative, and no attention should be paid to any others.

"Those who are so kindly giving garments to the societies are earnestly recommended to pay for the work to be done by women who would otherwise be unemployed.
....
The Societies wish to draw attention to the following matters :—

• Many questions have been asked as regards flannelette.  The Societies are not refusing garments made of this material, but flannel is greatly to be preferred.  
• Width and length of bandages should be clearly marked on each roll.  
• No helmets are required at present.  
• All socks other than bed socks must be made with heels.

The special requirements of each Society for the coming week are as follows:—
QUEEN MARY'S NEEDLEWORK GUILD.

• Cotton twill nightshirts.
• Pillowcases, 20in. by 30in.
• Handkerchiefs.
• Dressing gowns.
• Drawers.

ST. JOHN AMBULANCE SOCIETY.

• Drawers.
• Vests.
• Pillowcases, 20in. by 30in. 
• Dressing gowns. 
• Towels.

THE BRITISH RED CROSS SOCIETY.

• Flannel day shirts. 
• Handkerchiefs. 
• Cardigan jackets. 
• Socks (made with heels).

[When I read this attempt to sort out the confusion over who should provide what, I thought 'about time too' - until I remembered that the country had been at war for less than a month at this point,  so it was understandable that it would take a while to get organised.

The QMNG is catering here for the sick and wounded - clearly that was always the remit of the other two societies.

Flannelette is a brushed cotton fabric, to imitate flannel (wool).  Flannel was more expensive but officially preferred - for instance, uniform shirts for the Army were made of flannel, even for summer wear (I believe).

'Helmets' means Balaclava-type helmets, either to wear on cold days or for sleeping in.

There had been several letters in the press from private individuals (for instance, here)  suggesting that socks made without heel shaping had several advantages - they would fit any size foot and would wear better, because the heel of the man's foot would not always be in the same place.  The societies reported here obviously felt that this idea should be firmly suppressed.]

Sewing and Knitting for the Soldiers

HINTS TO THE LADIES

Many local ladies have now got well to work in the making of garments for soldiers, and in other cases provision is being made for “sewing meetings” twice or thrice a week with the same object in view.  The correct patterns should be ascertained before any work is begun.  It is also necessary that too many of one particular style of garment should not be made.  In some places there is a scheme under which all garments are being cut out at one central depot, so that it is possible to regulate the exact number of garments produced, and to see that they are not only correct in shape but in quantity.

It is said that our soldiers have been sent out well provided with helmets, so, though more will be wanted later on, the advice to all the good knitters is to turn their attention to socks for the time being.  Hand-knitted hosiery lasts much better than that which is machine made.  At the same time, those who are equally good with the needle will do well to devote the chief part of their time to the making of garments for the hospitals, and keep their knitting for odd moments.

(The Halifax Courier, 15th August, 1914)

[Helmets here means Balaclava helmets - they had been associated with the army since the Crimean War, from the name, and I think that they had been knitted as soldiers' comforts during the South African War.  So for the writer of this piece it would be natural to advise on whether helmets were needed at the time.  (Although  as far as I know, the soldiers of the British Expeditionary Force had not been provided with helmets and it was not part of the standard kit issued by the War Office.)]

(Cambrian Daily Leader, 15th August 1914)

[What civilian men were wearing in 1914. I suspect that at least part of the reason for the sale was that far fewer men were buying suits than usual - either because they were in the army or were thinking of volunteering, or because the war had made everyone reluctant to spend money if it wasn't absolutely necessary.]