Monday 23 April 2018

THE W.A.A.C. in France

From the Illustrated London News, April 20th 1918


LADIES’ PAGE.


A PROUD record is that of the Women's Army Auxiliary Corps, "mentioned" specially for their courage and devotion to duty in connection with the recent heavy battles in France.  The exact words of the praise are these: "The Army Council has read excellent report of the behaviour of the W.A.A.C.'s during the late heavy fighting. . . The W.A.A.C.'s during the crisis have more than justified their existence, and have well maintained the credit of their sex and of the Army to which they belong."  Illustrations are given, such as a detachment in domestic service at an Army school who remained "in a dangerous position after all the pupils had left," and continued to prepare and serve food to the exhausted officers and men till all were compelled to evacuate the place, and then, refusing an offer made to them to receive transport on the ground that it was needed for more urgent use, the women walked fifteen miles back to the place to which they were ordered.  Who could have predicted, not merely such courage, but such a reserve of physical strength, staying power, and nerve force as the women of Britain are now displaying?

"Needs must," however, governs many arrangements, and even the erratic fashion of dress is compelled to bow before the conditions produced by the Great War.  The extreme shortage of woollen fabrics and the consequent high prices have compelled the designers to adopt----as, indeed, they were formally asked by the French Government to do—a new and narrow cut for skirts.  Unnecessary fulness and superfluous folds are abolished.  As to waists, they are like the snakes in Iceland---there are none.  A loose belt just indicates where the waist naturally must be, or the skirt part of a one-piece gown is run with a little line of fulness on to a closer-fitting bodice piece.  A dressy style is to have a very wide belt-piece passing round the figure from the hips to the bust, in a different material from the rest of the dress, not shaped in at all, but the necessary fulness to the skirt for the width of the hips gives a certain shapeliness to the silhouette; as nearly as possible, however, it is a straight line.  This very wide belt may be of satin, and is often decorated with a little embroidery or a bead motif.  Sleeves, still on the no-waste idea, are quite tight, buttoning close to the wrist in some cases.  Very deep collars, almost capes, on the other hand, are often seen, and would have difficulty in justifying their economy of material.  Coat-frocks are as fashionable as ever, and on these the collar is apt to be large.  Black and white checks are much used, and a big collar of plain cloth in a contrasting colour, such as pale tan, mastic, lime-green, putty, or pale fawn, is a pleasing contrast.  The collar is often pointed, the tips falling nearly to the waist, and it is then termed a "shawl collar."  Square sailor-collars are also used, but extra deep at the back.  Tunics, moderately full over tight skirts, often in two materials, the upper garment reaching nearly or quite to the knee, are much patronised.  Tailor-made gowns also show close-fitting skirts, with narrow but rather fuller coats nearly to the knees.  Some are made with a vest of a contrasting colour introduced.  Belts are put to tie or button loosely in some designs, but mostly the coat is cut to hang gracefully without an indication of waist-line, except, perhaps, by a slight in-curving cut, but often not even that—a mere sac-like, loose fall from the shoulder.

[The abrupt change from discussing the W.A.A.C.'s record in France to the latest fashions is very striking.]

No comments:

Post a Comment